Hyperpigmentation is often associated with acne and harsher hair removal methods like shaving and laser treatments. But many also ask, “Does waxing cause hyperpigmentation?” The answer to this question is complicated. Although waxing alone doesn’t typically cause hyperpigmentation, it can be the catalyst for dark spots to grow. This guide will explore what really drives discoloration and why it can appear after waxing.
What is hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin is produced in the skin and distributed unevenly, leading to concentrated dark spots and a patchy skin tone.
Common signs and symptoms
Discoloration is more common in people with dark skin tones, but it can occur in people of any skin color. You may notice darker patches or small freckle-like spots on the upper lip, cheeks, forehead, underarms, and pubic area.
Most common causes
Inflammation and skin trauma are at the heart of hyperpigmentation. However, many factors may increase the risk, including certain skin conditions, a compromised moisture barrier, hormonal fluctuations, and the aging process.
Hyperpigmentation vs rosacea
Unlike hyperpigmentation, rosacea is a vascular condition that causes facial flushing. In some cases, clients with rosacea may be at higher risk of hyperpigmentation after waxing, as the hair removal process can increase inflammation.
Can waxing cause hyperpigmentation?
While waxing can technically cause hyperpigmentation, most post-wax discoloration is completely avoidable. Let’s explore what really triggers excess melanin production after hair removal.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is the most common reason skin becomes darker after waxing. Waxing removes hair from the follicle, which may trigger redness, swelling, and irritation. The body generates melanocytes in the area during the healing process, leading to deeper color development.
But here’s the thing about hyperpigmentation: It doesn’t usually occur after professional waxing treatments unless certain other factors come into play. Damaged, irritated skin is less resilient to waxing, so your clients’ baseline skin health and skincare practices will impact their risk of PIH.
Skin burns or trauma
Dark spots are common after burns and irritating hair removal methods like shaving and laser treatments. Of course, if an esthetician uses poor waxing techniques or applies wax at the wrong temperature, this process can also cause hyperpigmentation.
Friction and irritation
Skin needs several days to heal after a wax. During this time, it must be protected from irritating factors such as tight clothing, picking, and exfoliation. Your clients should avoid all unnecessary contact with the treatment area until it has fully recovered.
Sun exposure
Since sunlight amplifies pigment formation and damages skin, it might be the biggest trigger for dark spots. Waxing over sun-damaged skin increases the risk of burns, bruising, skin lifting, and severe pain. Meanwhile, exposing freshly waxed skin to UV rays enhances inflammation and stimulates the development of PIH.
How to prevent hyperpigmentation from waxing?
It’s much easier to prevent discoloration than to get rid of existing dark spots. But high-quality waxes and excellent techniques are only part of the equation when it comes to avoiding hyperpigmentation after waxing. Your clients can also help ensure a safe, effective treatment by adhering to the following guidelines:
Use sun protection
Daily sunscreen before and after waxing is the first line of defense against hyperpigmentation. Encourage your clients to apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30+ every day, even when they plan to stay indoors.
Use cold compresses
After waxing, the goal is to treat inflammation, and a cool compress can be the perfect tool. Soak a clean, soft cloth in cool – not cold – water, then apply to the area for 5 to 10 minutes. Afterward, apply a layer of pure witch hazel to reduce redness and calm irritated skin, minimizing the potential for discoloration.
Follow proper waxing aftercare
Don’t underestimate the importance of proper waxing aftercare, including:
- Avoiding heat, humidity, and sweating
- Minimizing friction
- Wearing loose, breathable clothing
- Keeping hands off of freshly waxed skin
- Washing the area with cool water
- Applying cool compresses
- Using barrier-friendly skincare products
Watch the ingredients in your skincare products
Harsh skincare products may increase photosensitivity and compromise the moisture barrier, setting clients up for a rough waxing experience. Remind them to avoid certain products before and after their appointment, such as:
- Retinoids
- Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
- Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs)
- Benzoyl peroxide
- Vitamin C
- Sugar scrubs and other physical exfoliants
Prevent ingrown hairs
Ingrown hairs create inflammation, which can leave behind scars and dark red or purple spots long after healing. Remind your clients to keep their skin hydrated, avoid tight clothing, and begin exfoliating three to five days after waxing using a mild chemical exfoliant.
Get your expert waxing tips and high-quality products from Enso Wax!
As an esthetician, you want the best for your clients, and Enso Wax is here to lighten your load with high-quality products and valuable insights from industry leaders. Check out the latest episode of The Waxing Podcast or shop our collection of hard and soft waxes today!
